The two collections were tied together by the ethos “more with less,” Buckminster Fuller’s multiplicative interpretation of Mies van der Rohe’s subtractive “less is more.” This theme was perhaps most apparent in the sheer silicon shoe covers and arm sleeves, which combined waterproof performance while adding a style accent. Indeed, Fuller’s philosophy resonates closely with meanswhile’s overarching brand concept, “clothing as a tool”—how Fujisaki describes his vision of simple yet utilitarian, multifunctional pieces suitable for both the runway and daily life.

Yet whereas past collections tended to focus predominantly on function, this season Fujisaki seemed to allow more leeway for his creativity to shine. In particular, the intricate botanical and Op Art-esque prints stood out as colorful allusions to mode paradigms. Still, each piece was meticulously calculated, from the use of material to sizing, silhouettes, and styling. A cynic might deem this attention to detail “design for design’s sake.” Whatever you want to call it, the results deserve high praise.