VEIN excels at the subtle art of subtraction and this season’s collection felt even more minimalistic than the last. The brand manages to coax out the maximum effect from their pared down designs, as evinced by wrinkles, holes, and color gradients showcasing the characteristics of the fabric. From the unfastened buttons and zippers to rolled-up sleeves, tops variably tucked-in or out, and the brand’s signature drawstrings, each look was styled with meticulous attention to detail. Even the scarves, the sole accessory this season, embellished without overpowering, whether worn around the neck or waist. To borrow the words of designer Koki Enomoto, the show transpired in a true “air of serenity.”

The subdued color palette of white, ecru, and black certainly contributed to this calm atmosphere. Yet as Enomoto wrote by hand (in English) in the collection notes: “COLOUR IS GOOD ENOUGH, BECAUSE THERE’S SOME YELLOW AND GREEN HERE!” As if signaling a rejection of facile colors, the whites used this season had a hint of yellow, and the inky blacks were given deeper nuance with tinges of green. In this way, Enomoto explores subtleties to make a statement in VEIN’s latest collection, an undeniable energy and sense of purpose brimming below its serene, minimalist surface.