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YOHEI OHNO

Review

Blending “original forms and function,” designer Yohei Ohno has garnered a loyal following for his eminently wearable garments that explore novel uses of material and new forms, unbound by conventional notions of Western clothing.


This season, Ohno took his experiments with form to a dramatic new extent. In an ostensible first for the brand, the show opened with two dresses that were true showpieces with more of an emphasis on design than practicality, featuring unique forms inspired by rugby balls. Yet the unsettling contrast between the skintight tops and contoured, oblong constructions provided a riveting start out of the gates.


This rugby ball motif was subsequently carried down the runway in elliptical peplum-esque waist details and rounded forms that highlighted the curvature of the hips. Throughout the collection, there was an athletic undertone in pieces reminiscent of practice wear and team uniforms, embellished with streamlined logos, accent stripes, mesh, and armband-esque detail, and other elements that added a satisfyingly sporty rhythm.


An elaborate wedding dress in pure white lace seemed to signal the show’s end in a throwback to the de rigeur finale of fashion shows of yesteryear. Yet Ohno had one more surprise up his sleeve, as the true finale came in the form of four models wearing plush upper-body pieces resembling the front bumpers of automobiles. Upon closer inspection, there turned out to be two variations on these curious forms: one gently curved and the other sharply angular. The first harkened back to the family car driven by Ohno’s father, while the latter referenced Tesla’s Cybertruck as a symbol of humanity’s dreams for the future.


Titled “NEW TOWN NEW CAR,” the collection was quite a personal one for Ohno, inspired by a photo album found at his parents’ home. Seeking to reconcile his own hazy memories of childhood with the smiling faces found in the album’s yellowed pages, Ohno’s collection artfully limned on the nostalgic longing for a bygone past and the desire to fashion a more hopeful future.

Brand

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