Choosing the theme Eternal Favorites, designer Emi Funayama has distilled the essence of the influences that have held sway over her imagination since she was a little girl. One such favorite described in the collection notes as “Victorian Gothic-style interior” design was echoed throughout with delicate lace, intricate quilting, angular motifs, sharp cuts, and long and lean silhouettes. Rather than stopping at Victorian interiors, the collection even seems to harken back to Gothic architecture proper, the black-saturated color palette evoking the gloom of late medieval period Europe. Yet leavened with airy fabric and sleek modern designs, the monochrome mood strikes a compelling balance. Behind every theme, Funayama’s own identity and artful guile as a designer shines through.

This season, Funayama said she also drew inspiration from Wednesday of The Addams Family. Throughout the collection we might detect the emotional turbulence of a teenage girl, torn between a desire to join adult society and an immature surety that nobody’s opinion matters but her own. Yet Funayama does not merely reference Wednesday’s iconic style. Rather, she explores the character’s inner world, seemingly seeking hints hidden behind the surface of her quiet façade. This sensitivity and idiosyncratic perspective are what make FETICO a unique presence on the Tokyo scene—indeed to quote The Addams Family theme song, perhaps even a bit “creepy, kooky, mysterious, and spooky”—in all the best ways.