This season, fluss continued to mature, elevating the boyishness of past collections to a more sophisticated new height. In particular, this maturity was embodied by a lovely stand collar jacket with premium drape fabric and strings at the waist that created an hourglass silhouette, radiating adult allure.

A muted color palette also set the tone for this season’s collection. Yet upon closer inspection, we might notice a remarkable richness of depth in purples infused with shades of green and navy, or smoky beige composed of cream, lilac, and khaki. This effect was achieved by combining multiple layers of colored felt, which was then fulled with a punch needle to combine the spectrum of underlying color. Meticulous multi-stripe patterns were another highlight, speaking to the designer’s tireless experimentation with color combination and stripe width. Indeed, the driving force behind fluss may be Kodama’s uncommon and perhaps even obsessive dedication to perfecting such details.

Along with the aforementioned stand collar jacket, a form-fitting strapless jumpsuit was another eye-catching stand-out. Evidently, the piece was not a jumpsuit at all, but extremely high-waisted thermal pants. The design exuded an air of illicit eroticism, hinting at the subtext of “perversion” hidden somewhere between the brand’s poles of innocent boyishness and adult elegance. Looking back through past collections, we begin to realize that this coy brilliance is what defines fluss as a brand. The studied nerdiness is a smokescreen. All along, Kodama has secretly infused his designs with an irresistibly intoxicating sardonicism.

Appropriately titled “look back, look forward,” this season’s collection signaled a turning point for fluss in no uncertain terms and offered a glimpse at the brand’s true essence as it looks confidently to the future ahead.