This season, mister it. made its catwalk debut with a collection titled “couture rhythm,” as we were reminded by ribbons embroidered with the title at the bustlines of nearly all the looks—a cheeky detail that referenced the brand’s signature draping that starts at the chest.

References to couture techniques abounded this season with a particular focus on cartonnage, the traditional French practice of wrapping boxes and other items in cloth. Whether covering a vintage jacket in jersey fabric or covering baseball caps in scarves, the notion of “covering” played out through the collection in the word’s various connotations, from pants layered over pants to sleeveless jackets adorned with auxiliary sleeves in matching fabric, adding an extra layer of dynamism and depth. At one point, a model even appeared alongside a bicycle covered in beige suiting cloth down to the last spoke. Such humorous flourishes are indicative of how Isagawa has sought to broaden the appeal of a couture scene with a reputation for taking itself too seriously.

Naturally, Isagawa also shares a couturier’s eye for material. He collaborated with a textile maker in Kyoto to produce nylon made with silk weaving techniques and denim created with a mix of organic cotton recycled from old kimono, indicative of his meticulous attention to the last detail.

Isagawa is a bit of a paradox, interweaving confluent inspirations in designs that are universal yet decidedly modern. For a comparatively small collection of only 25 pieces, the impact was decidedly outsized. Make no mistake, Isagawa’s time has come. Mister it. has what “it” takes to take flight on the world stage.