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TAMME

Review

Launched in 2021, tamme is still a relatively young brand, yet has already achieved a level of execution mature beyond reproach. While paying homage to the heritage of tailored suits, dress shirts, and military uniforms, designer Tatsuya Tamada is not afraid to put his own idiosyncratic spin on classic menswear. In other words, he is the pure designer with an uncanny knack for reinterpreting silhouettes, functionality, and even the meaning of garments into something entirely new and well, entirely tamme.

This season, Tamada delivered another characteristically dignified and dynamic fresh take on classic menswear. One particularly noteworthy example was a houndstooth jacket that partly disassembled to reveal a detachable handbag. This multilayered subversion of traditional tailoring—a given piece does not play merely a constituent role, but rather, gains new meaning when used independently on its own—became a defining theme that extended across the offerings this season. Tamada presented a complex, multilayered narrative informed by the keywords “merge” and “purge.” More than a mere combination of complex elements, Tamada has also sought to merge opposing ideas, which entails a meditation on the performance of purging. What can be readily removed? What seems extraneous but is integral? What can be excised yet causes the garment to lose meaning in its absence? When extrapolated, such questions give rise to a convoluted interplay of forking possibilities somewhat reminiscent of Cubism, adding a layer of conceptual intrigue that is evident throughout the collection.

As always, Tamada took an introspective approach to creation. That said, this season saw the introduction of warm pink and orange hues, an unusual departure from tamme’s past preference for solid color palettes—not quite primary colors or pastels, but rather sublimely balanced, dusty tones. Moreover, this season also included generous, rounded silhouettes that softly enveloped the straight, angular lines of traditional menswear.

“I let my hair down a bit this season and allowed myself to freely create what I simply felt like making,” said Tamada. Certainly, this collection feels more approachable and accessible than past seasons. Yet it's telling how even in such moments of unguarded inhibition, tamme’s garments bear the unmistakable hallmarks of Tamada’s meticulously considered, thoroughly thoughtful design.

Brand

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