Marking only TSTS’s third collection as a brand, this season was a small-scale affair with a mere 12 looks that left a laudably outsized impression. The first piece that caught the eyes was an oversized tailored jacket that had been thoroughly deformed as if to taunt Western clothing traditions, sneaking in a follow-up punch in the form of gaudy checkerboard flag lining with bright color blocking on either side. This impact was ratcheted up a notch further with a reversible, oversized field coat that could be worn inside out to reveal a lining of checkerboard patterns and wide stripes. Just when it seemed the brand had boxed itself into an ever-escalating corner, the collection returned to earth with more realistic street-style offerings, including relaxed denim lined with cute gingham check, a hoodie with a microphone stand print, and wide-striped shirts paired with track pants. This sense of balance made all the difference, proving this season was more sophisticated and thoughtful than just a splash of color.

When devising the collection, Sasaki returned to his formative roots as a designer, revisiting the same concept of “duality” that informed his graduation show from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp seven years prior. These dualities encompassed the everyday and the extraordinary, classic and modern, masculine and feminine, and above all, the cultural divide between conceptual Antwerp and literal Tokyo. Rather than a facile juxtaposition of difference, Sasaki sought to synthesize these covalent elements to arrive at a harmonious balance that speaks to the essence of TSTS’s approach.

In this way, the collection succeeded in giving form to a paradoxical proposition that made the surreal appear real. The resulting lineup of complexly quirky and delightfully outré looks make this nascent brand a welcome newcomer to the fashion week roster. Next season, we can only begin to guess—what will TSTS do next?