This season, Ohno said he consciously sought to chart a different tack by designing a lineup of “classics for the adult.” Despite the divergent theme, his creative approach remained much the same, following each fabric where it may lead with a characteristic dry touch. His choice of fabric this season was superb. From suiting fabric in pinstripes and plaids seemingly pulled from the closet of the well-heeled gentleman to flowing silk satin found in women’s gowns, he exclusively selected premium materials, all archetypical classics. This season’s color palette was similarly grounded in subdued black, gray, white, caramel and Bordeaux hues. The sole accent color was a Saxe blue, toned down to achieve a subtly smoky, mature elegance.

While on paper this lineup might seem to lack panache, the result was anything but dour. Ohno fully leverages the characteristics of the fabric with a craftsman’s attention to detail to draping, cutting, and asymmetrical patterning. This level of refinement places him a head above the rest of the pack in a Tokyo fashion scene where designers tend to clamor for attention with street style, multi-mix, and excessive layering. What truly sets the brand’s collections apart is Ohno’s prodigious imagination as a storyteller, each piece a tug-of-war between technique and creation. The result was a mature womenswear collection, imbued with a singular sense of urgency and sophistication.

Although Ohno said last season was the highlight of his career, one might argue that this season outshone the last. With the A/W 2024-25 collection, Ohno has once again demonstrated his talent for making quality garments, pure and simple. One can hardly wait to see what he will create next.