This season, FETICO incorporated several black materials into one look: velvet, enamel, knitwear, leather, tulle, and fabrics blending different threads like wool and polyester. The collection strikingly accentuated the depth of the black by both contrasting the differences and blending similar nuances. The designs combined dark colors such as charcoal, chocolate, and burgundy to lend further depth. They emphasized stark contrasts with white, and limned gradations by mixing different tones of gray. But above all, it was the inherent appeal of black that always radiated from the clothes.
The inspiration for the collection was the 1950s. Funayama borrowed the elegant fit and flare dress silhouette, reminiscent of haute couture then at its height in Europe, and matched it with the style of legendary pinup Bettie Page, who took the United States by storm at the time, to create a FETICO-esque neoclassical look. Leather belts adorned the necks of beautiful fit and flare dresses and finely tailored coats and jackets. Harness-like straps hugged chests. A glen plaid gilet was fitted with a lace-up closure. Funayama’s contrarian spirit delighted, unashamedly inserting the risqué details of restraint play into a classic style that prizes ​​purity and rigor. The balance of these elements—the destructive power of Bettie-esque bondage and the serenity of haute couture—seemed always to teeter on the edge of collapse, and yet the designs pulled it off, walking the tightrope between the two styles and exuding an extraordinary tension from the runway in the retro dance hall.
While adhering to its worldview without opting for easy novelties, FETICO here refrained from indulging its previous signature touch of putting lots of skin on display, and now seems intent on breaking free of stereotypical images. That notwithstanding, the brand didn’t neglect its usual penchant for a fetishistic aesthetic through such details as the leather belts and harnesses, the use of deep slits and sheer materials, and figure-hugging dresses. “Sensual yet charming.” Funayama’s words of praise for her idol, Bettie Page, became the phrase that encapsulated FETICO’s collection this season.