

Review
There is a book titled Messenger Style, filled with portraits of New York bicycle couriers. Their dynamism and realness, not to mention eccentric and genre-less styles, was a source of inspiration for designer Koji Kamiya this season.
What inspired Kamiya was the histories manifested in their clothes, which had been carefully repaired and continued to be worn despite damage from rain, wind, sunlight and unexpected accidents. In the attitudes of the messengers, Kamiya said that he felt “something in harmony with the faith at the core of my mind”. This led to expressions of damage, with which Kamiya has always excelled, becoming even more vibrant this season. A corduroy jacket and pants had faded tones, made by laser and bleach spraying processes, followed by exposure to the sun; a military coat skilfully applied with stain-like processing; denim pants with holes, appearing to have been made by being caught on something, repaired and sewn by hand. While pursuing realistic expressions, the pieces were impressively finished, with the balance between them reflecting intentional design.
The damaged looks were not the only reference drawn from the book. The key colour for the season, orange, was derived from a knit hat worn by one of the messengers. Chains and charms, which appeared repeatedly throughout the collection, were inspired by the key chains used by messengers, allowing them to easily lock and unlock their bikes while remaining on the move. Systematic movements of this kind were seen as evidence of their passion and pride in their work, and were crystallised in the form of accessories that brought vividness to various looks.
While the messengers may appear to live and dress freely in an environment without social pressure, they also experience sorrow, pain and despair. Empathising with the nameless messengers, Kamiya incorporated not only their styles but the wave of emotions behind them. As a result, the clothes seemed to appear tougher and more masculine than in previous seasons, with a glimpse of a mature inner strength. The images of men created by Kamiya used to be characterised by the insecurities of rude and mischievous kids, yet this season, they seemed to grow in strength.
