This season, the brand’s first runway collection brought this essence to the fore. As designer Satoru Sasaki explained, inspiration was sourced from the work of renowned American painter Mark Rothko, a pioneer of colour-field painting. “Rothko eschewed explaining his work with words and theories; instead, he splashed his emotions onto the canvas without hesitation. That attitude is indispensable in today’s world.” Indeed, many of the pieces that appeared on the runway seemed to embody the designer’s uncontrollable drive. The first look was a loop-knitted mini dress in a red gradation, a striking piece with hand-knitted wools in three different tones and varying weights. This was followed by an asymmetrical burgundy dress with a sensual inner dress partially visible around the hem. A fascinating palette unfolded, combining achromatic colours with vivid yellows, reds and blues. A lattice pattern with blurred lines also featured, created by needle punching different materials together. In addition to the bold use of colour, the unique method of Rothko, who composed with surfaces not contours, was also evident.

Sasaki was also impressed by the overwhelming size that characterises Rothko’s work, adopting a sense of enormousness through designs including a shirt with its collar expanded to form a cape-like outer layer, and knitwear with one sleeve far longer than the other, allowing it to double as a scarf. The designers belief in inharmonious design that disregards comfort and functionality was visible in other pieces, such as a jacket with a lapel that seemed to ignore the original crease line, and a pair of slacks with pile fabric on the front creating a sharp contrast with the back. In his own way, he paid homage to the painter who destroyed the established ideas of the art world.

The show saw roaring techno music used to contrast the brand’s elegant style and models wear palette-shaped bags in red and blue, as Sasaki – like Rothko before him – incorporated various surprises for the audience. The impact was significant, lingering long after the conclusion of the presentation, which lasted barely five minutes.