Penguins appeared everywhere this season as a recurring motif from the droll face mask that opened the show, to bead-embroidered jackets, mixed-yarn intarsia sweaters, button-eyed embellishments knitted into peacoats, and even furry blue jumpsuit getups that evoked the adorably plump arctic bird. More than simply a cute character, the flightless penguin was chosen by Kozuka for its symbolism. Feathers incorporated into the models’ hairstyles, makeup, and even the garments themselves can all be read as symbolic of an unfulfilled longing for flight. As trite as that may on the surface sound, according to the collection notes, the theme was not intended as a full-throated celebration of overcoming adversity to achieve the dream of flight through sheer strength of will. Rather, Kozuka pointed to the penguin as a reminder to acknowledge reality and be kind to yourself, just as you are. While it’s admirable to dream of flying, “Walking is okay, too.” This tenderness and uncommon perspective are the source of the beautiful lyricism behind SHINYAKOZUKA.
The catwalk was awash in tonal blues from the very first look. Flashes of black and white were used sparingly in a complementary role, adding depth and accentuating the blue. When making his runway debut in the S/S 2022 season, Kozuka took inspiration from leaking blue ink. What started as a small inkblot has steadily grown to hold special meaning for the designer. Yves Klein Blue has featured as the key color each season since S/S 2024. This season, Kozuka’s fixation on blue—a hue profoundly deep yet simultaneously vibrant and pure—finally spilled over the floodgates as an exuberant deluge.
“I feel last season marked the close of our first chapter,” Kozuka said. He has opened his second chapter by taking a new approach to designing this season. Kozuka always sketches his collections on an iPad. In the past, he used the pencil tool to add shadow. This season, he reportedly switched to a paintbrush tool, a change he says has allowed him to build out a contoured dimension by adding white highlights.
As SHINYAKOZUKA takes flight under the tricolor of blue, black, and white, we look forward to seeing what the new chapters hold for the brand.