This season, Otsuki endeavoured to establish a new Japanese trad, looking back at men’s attire from the bubble economy of the 1980s. Of course, everything was reinterpreted in a contemporary way. The oversized styles quite popular at the time were recreated with soft materials and the introduction of drapes, making them less intimidating than the originals. Power shoulders, the most eminent feature of ‘80s fashion, were replaced by a rounded silhouette carved down the arms.

There was also an attempt to challenge the suit’s golden ratio. A deep V-zone revealed the waistline; the gorge line and pockets appeared quite low, emphasising the jacket’s drape; and the pants had a high-waisted design. The dimples at the end of the jacket’s darts, usually considered defective, were retained and transformed as tucks, creating beautiful and accidental drapes. The sense of Japanese beauty evident in each and every detail was one that could not be found in perfect forms, only in imperfection.

For the creation of the collection, Otsuki said that he faced his Japanese identity and inferiority complex towards Western society. And the power shoulders, appearing repeatedly throughout the show, reflected his own broad shoulders, something he had felt embarrassed about. There was a boldness in applying this sense of inferiority to the design, showing a glimpse of Otsuki’s pride as a designer.