After designer Terumasa Nakajima wove Japanese folklore images into the previous season’s collection, he employed a narrative again this season. However, rather than an existing one, it was “A Night Story” – a personal, imaginative tale created by Nakajima himself. The evening dresses represented images of sophisticated ladies enjoying an evening party. What followed was a joyous scene, a bedroom pyjama party with children imitating elegant adults by using a frilled pillowcase wrapped around the waist like a peplum, a brown blanket worn with a belt tied around the head, wrapping themselves in a lace curtain, holding a fluffy cushion like a bag, or wearing quilted bedclothes like a skirt. Young and innocent imaginations were transformed into unique and sophisticated styles. The show concluded with the use of a star motif, reflecting the starry night sky that embraces weary children after a day of fun.

Yet what made this season truly radiant were the numerous references to the late singer Kurt Cobain. Traces of the reclusive icon, which may not have matched the nostalgic fantasy, could be found in various parts of the show. There was a leopard pattern complementing a classical coat; a checkered, flannel shirt-style pattern; grunge-style motifs and oval sunglasses. Curving foil prints paid tribute to Art Nouveau, but were layered on top of leopard and checkered patterns. Mixing the distinctive patterns neutralised their quirkiness, building on Nakajima’s belief retained from his time under Dries Van Noten: “Add more but make it neutral”.

This season, TELMA successfully found compatibility between classic beauty and bold strength, resulting in pieces that were both beautiful and uniquely quirky, raising expectations for the next collection.