The A/W 2023 season was no exception. Inspired by the Virgin Mary, the collection featured “abstract textures” evocative of the holy mother. In the hands of Akiko Aoki, this theme was realized as raw, real clothes designed for the modern woman.

Aoki certainly excels at reinterpreting masculine fare from classical suiting and trench coats, to military, streetwear, and sportswear with structured, feminine silhouettes. The result is a sinfully delightful mashup of codes, pairing medieval wimples with feminine bodylines and revealing lace on bare skin. Of particular note were the modern skirts and jackets tightened up with an unexpected corset-esque detail to sublime effect.

Amid the parade of child’s play seen in this Tokyo Fashion Week, Akiko Aoki’s collection stood out as a mature offering from a designer who has firmly found her feet.