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YOKE

Review

Each season, YOKE crafts a collection around a specific artist, reflecting founder Norio Terada’s encyclopedic knowledge of art. The brand’s latest collection was inspired by the oeuvre of 20th century English painter Ben Nicholson, as distilled into five keywords: “layer, shadow, lines, geometry, and color-blocking.”

The show opened with a subdued color palette of browns, ecrus, blacks and charcoals, introduced by an eye-catching coat crisscrossed by abstract, almost geological lines. This achromatic mood shifted halfway through the show with the appearance of exquisite color-block knits that paid homage to Nicholson’s chromatic pastels and geometric patterns.

Successive looks recapitulated the achromatic tone, accented by flashes of red, emerald, and aqua blue. YOKE’s sublime use of color as well as the originality of their textiles are both indicative products of the brand’s uncommon studiousness and awareness of historical detail. For example, even their seemingly ordinary quilting, upon closer inspection, married straight and curved lives in deceptively complex geometric patterns.

The hefty textiles in military olive that appeared in the latter half of the show were realized with the sakiori hand-weaving technique from the Tohoku region of Japan that traditionally uses hemp for the weft and recycled kimono scraps for the warp. Similarly, the sumptuous faux fur outerwear pieces were actually jacquard weaves that combined disparate materials to create a patchwork effect.

The show closed with a down jacket consisting of numerous small pieces held together by zippers. Function follows form follows fun.

This season’s collection was another solid showing from YOKE, a brand that combines design and function with the individual fingerprints of beautiful handwork, and a harbinger for the next generation of fashion, encapsulated in the brand’s ambition to deliver “life-sized luxury.”

Brand

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