SEASONAL OVERVIEW AW 2025

“Smaller is stronger” was the phrase used by Rei Kawakubo for COMME des GARÇONS’ 2025-26 AW collection. The message was that small-scale businesses are doing some amazing work, striking enough to exceed their larger counterparts, at a time when big businesses, mass culture and the ever-expanding internet society are shaping people’s lives. It was a challenge from an independent creator, praising the small designers struggling to continue making their wares.

This season in Tokyo, many collections were made by small yet amazing brands that seemed to embody Kawakubo’s words. KANAKO SAKAI and Fluss successfully brought careful handiwork into powerful shows, while SHINYAKOZUKA and TELMA created impressive narratives, interwoven with makers’ experiences and memories, through their intricate and sincere presentations. Pillings and SOSHIOTSUKI were the most noteworthy of all. The former’s collection overwhelmed the audience, mixing the beautiful and the grotesque by adding another layer to their signature wool garments and knitwear. On the other hand, the latter attempted to raise an objection to the perfect tailoring that has become standard for men’s attire. By incorporating defects usually considered as imperfect, the brand took issue with well-balanced tailoring and instead sought to establish a new Japanese trad. Both brands were recognised in the 2025 LVMH PRIZE: Pillings as a semi-finalist; SOSHIOTSUKI as a finalist. 

A sense of incongruity could also be felt across the shows. KAMIYA and Tamme mixed careful tailoring with cuts, frays and stains, turning them into beautiful pieces of work. KEISUKEYOSHIDA and SATORU SASAKI found new possibilities in contorted silhouettes and unbalanced shapes, questioning their values. HATRA created shapes and printed images using digital craft tools, resulting in a strong and distinctive sense of oddness. 

While honouring craftsmanship, the designers’ creative minds embraced new ideas and values, subtle as they may have been. Therein may lie the true strength of the current mode fashion scene in Tokyo.